The Ben Tre lanes: coconut country by bike

Ben Tre is a cluster of large islands between branches of the Mekong. Before 2025 it was its own province; it is now part of Vinh Long, together with Tra Vinh. For cyclists it is the near end of the delta's lane network: concrete paths built for mopeds and bicycles, running from house to house and farm to farm along the canals, with small bridges every few hundred metres.

The obvious version of Ben Tre is a boat trip from My Tho to an islet, a coconut-candy workshop and a horse cart. That still runs and is busy. The lanes away from those stops are quiet. Further in, Cho Lach on Minh islet, more than 40 km from Ben Tre town, is orchard and nursery country; its Cai Mon flower village is the delta's second-largest supplier of ornamental plants after Sa Dec. Across the Co Chien river, An Binh islet opposite Vinh Long has more than 60 km² of the same kind of lanes, with homestays that began opening around 2000.

December to February are the most comfortable riding months. April is the hottest month across the delta. From May to August the orchards are at their fullest, with rambutan, durian, longan and guava harvested; the cost is the start of the rains, usually as heavy showers. September and October bring the most rain, and the dirt sections of the lanes turn to mud.

The weeks before Lunar New Year fill the flower villages around Cai Mon with buyers. And in the dry season salt water reaches far up the river mouths: 30–35 km up the Ham Luong and 35–40 km up the Co Chien at the 2025–26 peak.

• By road: about 85 km from central Ho Chi Minh City to Ben Tre town, 1¾–2¼ hours, over the Rach Mieu crossing from the My Tho side.
• By bus: the Phuong Trang (FUTA) network runs Ho Chi Minh City–Ben Tre–Tra Vinh–Vinh Long; fares vary by date.
• To An Binh: across the river from Vinh Long (Long Chau ward), about 136 km from Ho Chi Minh City; we confirm the crossing when we route the day.
• Bikes: rental quality varies. Bringing bikes from Ho Chi Minh City in a support vehicle is the reliable option.

Rooms in the lane country are simple and cheap; meals at roadside stalls cost little. Check before you go: these are publisher figures, not fixed prices.

• You do not want to ride or walk; the boat-and-islet day trips from My Tho cover the visitor stops.
• Your dates are in April and you handle heat badly.
• You want long distances; the lanes reward slow riding, not mileage.
• September or October, if muddy dirt sections would put you off.