An Giang: forest, then mountain

Day 1

Ho Chi Minh City to Chau Doc, Sam Mountain at dusk

Sam Mountain summit at last light

Departure at 06:00. The drive runs along the delta's expressways and then provincial roads to Chau Doc, with a stop for breakfast and one for stretching. Allow 4½–5½ hours with stops; we reach Chau Doc for lunch and the hottest hours in the hotel.

At 16:00 the guide takes you to the foot of Sam Mountain, about 284 m, home to the Lady of the Realm temple at its base and a dense spread of shrines on its slopes. We walk up the summit road rather than taking the 900 m cable car, reaching the summit for the last light over the plain, and walk or ride the car down in the dark.

Day 2

Ride to Tra Su, row, ride the dyke path

The forest in the first hour after opening

On the bikes at 05:45. The road to Tra Su follows provincial road 948 to the signposted turn-off, then smaller roads between the fields. About 20 km, reaching the gate as it opens at 06:30. From September to November those fields are water on both sides.

Inside the 850 ha forest we take the rowed sampan loop first: about 25 minutes on a 2 km loop, rowed mostly by local women who have worked here for years. Where the rower agrees, you take the oar for a stretch; it is harder than it looks. Then two hours on the site's hire bikes along the narrow paved dyke path, and a walk on the raised walkway. The 25 m viewing tower looks across the forest to the Seven Mountains.

By 10:30 the heat sets in. The van takes the bikes back to Chau Doc; afternoon rest, then an optional short dyke ride after 16:00.

Day 3

Cam Mountain climb, cable car down, return

Early cloud below the summit, when it forms

Early start at 05:00 for the drive to Cam Mountain. The climb begins at 05:30 on flights of steps and steep paths through forest, past Thuy Liem lake and the Van Linh pagoda at about 550 m, toward the summit at about 716 m, the highest point in the Mekong Delta, crowned by a 33.6 m Maitreya Buddha. We plan a full morning for the way up, at a steady pace with long stops.

Down by the cable car, which runs over 3,500 m and takes under 15 minutes. Lunch at the foot, then the long drive back to Ho Chi Minh City, arriving in the evening. Or stay in Chau Doc: the river boat to Phnom Penh leaves at 07:00 the next morning.